The beauty of Jiangnan always has something to do with water. “Sun comes up, red river blossoms equal to flaming fire. Spring arrives, the river water green as well as blue.” The flowing water forms the unique rhythm of a city in Jiangnan and composes a charming painting of crisscrossing waterways.
So is the city of Hangzhou! It's built by the river and prospers because of the lake. It has Xixi Wetland at its back, the West Lake in the center and Qiantang River in the east. And moreover, the Grand Canal, the Middle River, the East River and Tiesha River all meander through the city. While visiting the lake to enjoy its scenery, ancient literati and scholars preferred to stand alone in the front of the boat, enjoy wine and compose poems. However, ordinary people, in the majority, opted to explore on foot. They walked around the lake again and again to discover its unique charm.
Walking is a sort of positive energy. With a backpack, a pair of feet and a young heart, along the winding river, you can walk either slowly or swiftly, wave goodbye to the hustle and bustle of the city and stay away from the high-rise buildings. The clear river, the gentle water and the undulating waves will give you enlightenment and strength, and lead you into thinking.
The city of Hangzhou is best explored on foot. Following the water, use your feet to measure every inch of land. Every step you take, you will see a different world.
The West Lake itself is a legend. It has witnessed the love stories between Lady White Snake and Xu Xian, and the Butterfly Lovers Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai, and bravery and loyalty of Yue Fei and Qiu Jin. While you are in Hangzhou, how can you miss the most classic walking route?
In early spring, warm breezes caress your face gently and new buds burst out of the twigs of the willow trees. Winter jasmines in full bloom smile at you as you step on Bai Causeway and across the Broken Bridge. The West Lake full of stories is waiting to be measured carefully with your footsteps.
When you are walking by the lake, we suggest you not miss the Solitary Hill. That the Broken Bridge is not broken, the Solitary Hill is not solitary and the Long Bridge is not long are regarded 3 wonders of the West Lake. A small hill on the lake a few dozen meters high, it is an elegant place frequented by literati and scholars. It is also home to Zhejiang Library which holds the Complete Library in the Four Branches of Literature, Zhejiang Museum which displays many historical and cultural artifacts, Yu Mansion, the former residence of Qing Dynasty scholar Yu Yue and Liuyi Spring in memory of Song Dynasty scholar Ouyang Xiu, etc.
At the northern foot of the mountain stands a pavilion known as Fanghe, which was built for Lin Bu, a poet who wrote the poem “Their scattered shadows fall lightly on clear water; their subtle scent pervades the moonlit dusk” and lived in recluse by the lake for much of his later life. If you feel tired of city life, will you applaud his move? And on the large lawn below the slop stands the striking statue of Qiu Jin. Her heroic life is equally touching! Surrounded by shimmering waves and lush flowers and woods, the entire hill is like a beautiful garden. You may walk into Xiling Seal Art Society accidentally and have a cup of Longjing tea. And when you walk down the hill, you will get to the hundred-year-old Louwailou Restaurant. Walking around in such a casual way, you have got the essentials of the lake at a glance.
Walking by the West Lake, you can admire different sights during the daytime and at night. And along Hubin Road, the city’s prosperity is vividly spotted. Get seated on a stone bench inside the 3rd Park, watch the fantastic musical fountain show and listen to the music of the Butterfly Lovers. You will be lost totally in it. Or enjoy a fast walk across Su Causeway like locals at night, accompanied by street lamps, all the way from Kuahong Bridge to Yingbo Bridge. At your ears is the faint music of Impression of West Lake show coming from afar and in front of your eyes are the thick shadows of trees. Outside, you are panting for breath and dripping with sweat, but inside, you feel pleasure and joy which are difficult to put into words.
Golden lights illumine the exquisite pavilions and chambers. The blue and green light bands create a dreamy atmosphere and brighten the sculptures and inscriptions under the bridge, either openly or soothingly, like musical notes, coming into view one by one.
This is the ancient Grand Canal amid the paddling sound under the shadows of lights, or to be precise, Hangzhou section of Grand Canal. The Grand Canal culture, which has been passing down for thousands of years, appears more vivid and lively under the illumination of modern lights and shadows.
Walking by the canal is what people in Hangzhou will humorously call “walking for luck.” When walking comes with a beautiful vision of blessing, doesn't it make you even more excited to take action?
The best time is at dusk. Start from the West Lake Culture Square in the city center. It is bustling with people, mostly the elderly, who are happily twisting their bodies to the most rocking music, accompanied by warm breezes coming to the face. Encouraged by this lively scene, you just cross Yeqingdou Bridge and head towards the north.
It is a 1 to 2 meters wide path with stone steps, very good for walking alone quietly. Walk at your own pace with the gurgling water. And the gramps and grannies striding towards you are also a great encouragement to you to move forward. Even they are “walking for luck,” why don’t we who are still young?
After walking for a while, you will see lights. That's Dadou Road, once the most prosperous section of the “Ten-Mile Silver Hushu.” To its north is Beixinguan, the famous canal customs of Ming and Qing dynasties. To its south is the famous Qing Dynasty granary - Fuyicang, and to its west is Xiangji Temple, the first of the three major temples outside Hangzhou during Ming and Qing dynasties. The most illuminated place in front of your eyes should be the temple, which is a splendid golden building glittering in darkness.
Moving further to the north, you get to Xiaohezhi Street. Flame red lanterns are hanging outside the stores, suggesting an air of reunion and warmth. And the magnificent Gongchen Bridge spanning across the canal looks so stunning that
“Just stay in Xixi.” Xixi, which lingers in the heart of Ge You, a famous actor in China, is a national wetland park in China that incorporates many features. It is a farming-featured urban cultural wetland. By taking a boat ride, you could enjoy the scenery of Xixi thoroughly. But how about going off the beaten track to have a walk in the wetland?
This walking route does not require an entrance fee. You can enter from Wen’er West Road. It is the ticket-free zone of Xixi Wetland, a stone road with persimmon trees on both sides, keeping off the hustle and bustle, and the deeper you walk, the closer you get to the original ecology with rivers, ponds, trees and walking trails, and a few bird songs from time to time.
Natural and quiet, but that's not all. The Slow Life Zone is filled with a number of small chic stores that are full of surprises. Go inside Rula Town and try the signature grilled food in its sun-filled glass room. Or go to Jianghu 19 and let out your emotions in the slow-rocking oldies. And for those who are fond of a lively atmosphere, they may opt for the small stalls by Jiangchun Market, where the freshly grilled fish of Xixi is crispy and yummy, and can be hand-shredded. There are also vendors making Chinese New Year cakes, rice cakes and peanut candies on the spot. They keep on beating the cake with a wooden hammer and crying out for customers. All these remind people of the Chinese New Year.
Once people said about Hangzhou that the West Lake was beautiful but the city was shabby. But time has changed not only people but also the city’s appearance.
Nowadays, when people come to Hangzhou, they will not only marvel at the famous scenic spots like the West Lake, the Grand Canal and Xixi Wetland, but also be happy to discover the city’s beauty that is hidden on streets and lanes and in small courtyards. Chance encounters are even more amazing.
Start from Hefang Street to admire the most vibrant market scene of the city and then turn to the East River. You will then get to Wuliu Lane where you will see the most typical residents of Hangzhou and their life. The river flows gently and the towering trees on both sides keep the hustle and bustle off. The white walls and black tiles shaded by lush green woods and the local residents walking slowly with a fan in their hands…This is life!
Walk to Qingchun Road and the scenery is still not over. Further to the east for dozens of meters, it is Daxue Road, where the former site of Zhejiang University is located. In 1933, Yu Dafu and Wang Yingxia also lived here. Sadly, although the couple made a perfect match being a talented scholar and a beautiful lady, they became strangers eventually. Perhaps everlasting love only exists in heaven. Leave a touch of sadness behind and continue to the west. There is Data’er Lane, close to the Middle River. Dai Wangshu’s Alley in the Rain refers to this small alley. “Carrying an oil-paper umbrella, wandering alone in the deep, deep and desolate rain-filled alley, I expect to meet a girl steeped with sadness of lilac.” No matter how it changes outside, it remains the same with white walls and black tiles. Walk slowly in the hope that the lilac-like girl will go past.