Sericulture and Silk Craftsmanship of China

Sericulture and silk craftsmanship of China, based in Zhejiang and Jiangsu Provinces near Shanghai and Chengdu in Sichuan Province, have an ancient history. Traditionally an important role for women in the economy of rural regions, silk-making encompasses planting mulberry, raising silkworms, unreeling silk, making thread, and designing and weaving fabric. It has been handed down within families and through apprenticeship, with techniques often spreading within local groups. The life cycle of the silkworm was seen as representing the life, death and rebirth of human beings. In the ponds that dot the villages, silkworm waste is fed to fishes, while mud from the ponds fertilizes the mulberry trees, and the leaves in turn feed the silkworms. Near the beginning of the lunar year, silkworm farmers invite artisans into their homes to perform the story of the Goddess of the Silkworm, to ward off evil and ensure a bountiful harvest. Every April, female silkworm farmers adorn themselves with colourful flowers made of silk or paper and make harvest offerings as part of the Silkworm Flower festival. Silk touches the lives of rural Chinese in more material ways, too, in the form of the silk clothes, quilts, umbrellas, fans and flowers that punctuate everyday life.

Hangzhou Leno Manufacturing Craftsmanship

Photo by Lin Ridong 林日东

Leno is a type of silk fabric that originated in Hangzhou City, Zhejiang Province. Early in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), the city was one of the major production places for silk and attracted merchants from far away to purchase the cloth. Leno became a well-known brand in the Qing Dynasty (1964-1911) and survived the turbulent history in modern China while being preserved to this day.

The manufacturing craftsmanship of leno is complicated. The process contains a dozen procedures which can be roughly divided into three steps. The first step is to process raw silk which needs to be screened, soaked, and aired. The second step is to prepare the silk threads onto the loom and the third is to weave the threads into leno cloth before they are finally further processed, such as through a dying treatment.

The manufacturing craftsmanship was included in the "catalogue of national representative of intangible heritage culture items" in 2008 and as a sub-item of "China sericulture and silk weaving", in the Masterpieces of the Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2009.

Yuhang Rinsing Silk Wadding Manufacturing Craftsmanship

Rinsing silk wadding originated in Yuhang District, Hangzhou City. People living there had engaged in growing mulberry trees and raising silkworms since the Zhou Dynasty (c. 11th century-256 BC). Yuhang rinsing silk wadding won the special award at the first China Hangzhou West Lake Expo in 1929. 

Rinsing silk wadding gets the name for most of its processing procedures being conducted in clean water. From selecting silkworm cocoon to airing, the process contains six steps requiring high skills from crafty people. 

Yuhang rinsing silk wadding is famous for its white color, soft texture, and high tenacity. In ancient times, it was presented to the royal family as a tribute. The silk wadding, a byproduct of the sericulture industry, is the natural material for making thermal products and it is also beneficial to people’s health. 

The manufacturing craftsmanship of rinsing silk wadding was included in the “catalogue of national representative of intangible heritage culture items” in 2008 and as a sub-item of “China sericulture and silk weaving”, in the Masterpieces of the Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO in 2009.