Follow Hangzhou cultural history expert Mr. Xu Yuefeng on a journey through Hangzhou's Wu-Yue legend.
The first stop is Chengshan Square, facing the mountain range known as 'Zhou Dynasty relic, famous mountain of Yue.' During the Spring and Autumn Period, the Xianghu-Chengshan area was an ancient battlefield in the Wu-Yue conflict. It houses the best-preserved city wall ruins from the late Spring and Autumn Period in China, witnessing several encounters between King Fu Chai of Wu and King Goujian of Yue.
Visitors can journey from Xianghu to Wu Hill, continuing to trace Wu-Yue history. After Goujian's defeat by Fu Chai, he retreated with 5,000 remaining troops to Kuaiji (modern-day Shaoxing). Many small hills north of the Qiantang River became Wu's boundary mountains, hence named Wu Hill. Today, the ancient conflicts are long past, and Wu Hill is a pleasant walking spot for Hangzhou residents.
On Wu Hill, you'll find Wu Gong Temple, dedicated to Wu Zixu, a minister of Wu State during the late Spring and Autumn Period, whom people worship as the "Tide God." The temple has four courtyards, passing through the Divine Horse Gate to the Imperial Incense Hall, Loyalty and Purity Hall, and Tide God Hall. After experiencing the temple's incense offerings, enjoy a peaceful moment in the tea pavilion outside.
The final stop is the Local Chronicles Museum, where you can browse this "living" encyclopedia of Hangzhou and conclude the Wu-Yue cultural tour. From the "Yue Jue Shu" centered on the Wu-Yue conflict, to the "Three Chronicles of Song Lin'an" and the Qing Dynasty's "Wu Hill Chronicles" and "Wu Hill Wu Gong Temple Chronicles," Hangzhou's Wu-Yue historical thread is clearly visible.
The Zhejiang Provincial Museum houses a Warring States Period sword inscribed with "By Order of the King of Yue to Shi Yu." The sword belonged to Shi Yu, son of King Goujian of Yue, and is one of the best-preserved bronze swords from the State of Yue.
Begin at the North Palace Gate and Hening Gate, walking along the central axis of the Southern Song Dynasty imperial city. Looking at the remaining imperial road ruins, imagine Southern Song officials entering the palace for court sessions, and the bustling market outside where "in early mornings, precious jewels, rare items, seasonal flowers and fruits, seafood, wild game, and unique artifacts unavailable elsewhere in the world would all gather here." Song City Road area, Shangcheng District
Join Zheng Jiali, researcher at the Zhejiang Provincial Institute of Cultural Relics and Archaeology, to explore the imperial ruins hidden in Phoenix Mountain.
Turn into the vibrant Phoenix Mountain Foot Road, stretching from Zhaozhouwan in the south to Wansong Ridge Road in the north. Walking slowly along this path, beneath your feet lie buried palace ruins, while before your eyes unfolds everyday life. What was once a corner of the imperial city has now become part of old Hangzhou's neighborhood memories.
After walking Phoenix Mountain Foot Road, seek out the Southern Song Official Kiln site. After the Song court moved south, they established two official kilns in Hangzhou - the Internal Affairs Bureau and the Suburban Altar kilns. The Tiger Cave site was the original Internal Affairs Bureau kiln, less than 100 meters from the Southern Song imperial city ruins. Among ancient trees on the mountain flatland, dragon kilns, workshops, clay-settling pools, and 24 ceramic shard pits have been unearthed.
Leave the kiln site, cross Bapan Ridge to Phoenix Mountain, and find the ancient Shengguo Temple hidden in the forest. This Southern Song imperial temple, originally built in the Tang Dynasty, was repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. The ruins area contains multiple cultural relics, including the remaining statues of the Three Saints of the West and Song Gaozhong's "Loyalty" inscription, quietly awaiting visitors seeking historical traces.
Near Shengguo Temple, Moon Rock was incorporated into the imperial gardens during the Southern Song Dynasty. During Mid-Autumn Festival, when the moon is full, clear moonlight passes through Moon Rock's circular hole, creating another moon on the rock's summit. It was one of Hangzhou's three famous moon-viewing spots, alongside "Moon Over the Peaceful Lake" and "Three Pools Mirroring the Moon." Today, the rock face still bears many poetic inscriptions such as "High and Bright," "Light and Shadow in Heaven," "Shadowless Image," and "Hanging Lotus Stone."
"True historical heritage that resonates with people must be visible, tangible, experiential, and accessible."
—Zheng Jiali
The exact location of the Southern Song Dynasty's Qingbo Gate was at the intersection of Nanshan Road and Qingbo Road. As one of the western city gates, historically it connected to Nanshan (South Mountain), and since firewood was mainly transported through this gate, there was a folk saying: "Firewood carriers outside Qingbo Gate."
Follow local cultural research expert Cao Xiaobo to explore the remnants of the Song Dynasties scattered throughout the city.
Looking beyond the ancient Qingbo Gate, there once stood the royal Jujing Garden of the Southern Song Dynasty, built along the lake. The garden was filled with pavilions and willows, featuring Liulang Harbor and Liulang Bridge, which were the predecessors of the famous "Orioles Singing in the Willows" scenic spot.
Jujing Garden has many interesting stories. For instance, Emperor Xiaozong demolished nine temples to expand the garden, including the "Waterfront Baoning Temple" that was built on the lake.
This bridge was once part of Jujing Garden, located outside the south gate of today's Liuying Hotel, near West Lake, overlooking the calm waters of Scholar's Harbor. A Ming Dynasty poet once described the scene: "Peach blossoms at Scholar's Harbor, pine colors at Nanping, willows in front of Su's gate."
Past Scholar's Bridge, carried by lake breezes, arrive at "Eight Pot Hermitage," the former site of "Zhou Gong Temple," which commemorated Zhou Dunyi, the Song Dynasty Neo-Confucian pioneer who "succeeded Confucius and Mencius, and preceded Cheng and Zhu." When the Song court moved south, they "relocated" him to West Lake's shore.
The Long Bridge mentioned in the saying "Broken Bridge isn't broken, Long Bridge isn't long" is near Eight Pot Hermitage, only about five meters long. Originally, the bridge was indeed long but shortened due to changes in the surrounding landscape and lake surface.
The final stop is at the Wansong Ridge Road intersection. The historical Qianhu Gate was located at the southeast corner of this junction. It was the southernmost gate on West Lake's eastern shore and was a bustling commercial area in Lin'an (present-day Hangzhou).
"From the Southern Song Dynasty to today, over 800 years, the city's layout hasn't changed, its direction hasn't changed, and the overall division between Shangcheng and Xiacheng districts (original Xiacheng district) hasn't changed."
—Cao Xiaobo
Discover Lin'an memories hidden in modern Hangzhou through Song Dynasty relics.
Begin at Deshou Palace for a glimpse into Lin'an's prosperous appearance. It served as the residence for Emperors Gaozong and Xiaozong after their abdication, known as the "Northern Inner Palace" or "Northern Palace." The site features carefully restored Song Dynasty palace buildings and royal gardens, combined with underground relic protection and cultural exhibitions, creating an important platform for displaying Southern Song history and culture.
Pass through the time-worn Zhongshan South Road to reach the spacious Imperial Ancestral Temple Plaza. Built in the fourth year of Shaoxing during the Southern Song Dynasty, this royal ancestral temple hosted grand ceremonies where emperors led court officials in worship. The remaining ruins include the east wall, east gate site, and large building foundations.
Continue down Zhongshan South Road to find this understated exhibition hall. Located in Yanguan Lane, once the core area of Southern Song Lin'an, the hall displays original features of the imperial street, palace sites, walls, and waterways from the Southern Song period. The well-preserved section of the imperial street particularly helps determine Lin'an's central axis, clearly revealing the city's layout.
The final stop is Bagua Field at the foot of Yuhuang Mountain, presenting a beautiful pastoral landscape. This was the Southern Song royal ceremonial plowing field, showcasing agricultural culture and royal plowing ritual culture. In 1146 (16th year of Shaoxing), Emperor Gaozong Zhao Gou held a grand personal plowing ceremony here. Today, Bagua Field remains agricultural land, growing different crops throughout the four seasons, displaying ever-changing colors. It's most photogenic when rapeseed flowers bloom in spring.