There are hutongs in Beijing and longtangs in Shanghai. But when it comes to Hangzhou, the first thing that comes to people’s minds is the West Lake. And those who know a little more about the city may recommend places like Maojiabu and the mountains around the lake. But is Hangzhou all about the lake and its surrounding mountains?
Of course not! In Hangzhou, there are also such places that are full of charm. They are hidden in the city’s old neighborhoods. The old town, streets and alleys all preserve the original look and flavor of the city. Let’s pick a time to explore them.
Shiwukui Alley 十五奎巷
Shiwukui Alley is in Shangcheng District. It is connected with Chenghuang Pailou Alley. It was once called Zhugan Alley in the Song Dynasty and belonged to Changqingfang.
There are two versions as to why it is called Shiwukui Alley. One goes that the alley is known as Shiwugui Alley, literally the Stone Turtle Alley, because of the stone turtle inside Huizhou Merchant Club on the alley. But it is not quite an elegant name, so it is called Shiwukui Alley instead. The other one goes that in Jiajing reign of the Ming Dynasty, people living on the alley were very good at horseback archery and 10 candidates from there passed the imperial military examination at the same time. Therefore, it is called Shiwukui Alley.
Photographers have found a stunning position here: from a particular angle, the dazzling Tang-style Wangxian Pavilion stands out against the white walls and grey tiles of Jiangnan style residences.
Where is it exactly? Go to Xiaoxia Lane in Shiwukui Alley. Walk inside and you will see a small produce store. Go on a few steps and that’s it.
Apart from this, there are also great restaurants that have been open for many years and are known by many local foodies, old people who sit there chatting and small alleyways that have very interesting names…
Dama Lane 大马弄
Dama Lane starts from Taimiao Alley in the south and ends at Chenghuang Pailou Alley in the north. In 1966, it was called Shaoshan Alley and in 1981, it was renamed Dama Lane. The three words "大马弄" were copied from Mao Zedong's hand writings.
This short lane is only about one hundred meters long, but it has a lot to offer: fresh vegetables from Fuyang, free-range chickens from Jinhua and Lin'an, seafood from Zhoushan, Hangzhou people's favorite duck in sauce, fried food and "youdun," a local snack that is rarely seen now in Hangzhou... The list goes on and on!
It's as if time has stopped here, and once you go through the archway, it's like you've been back to the days when you were a child following your grandparents to the market.
Dama Lane is a place with a special charm, probably because it has been reflecting the most common everyday life of Hangzhou people over the decades.
Zhongshan Middle Road 中山中路
Zhongshan Middle Road and the surrounding areas have been the center of Hangzhou since the Southern Song Dynasty. Starting from Guanxiangkou on Jiefang Road in the north and ending at the Drum Tower in Qinghefang in the south, Zhongshan Middle Road is about 1,500 meters long and is currently one of the most complete and largest historical blocks in Hangzhou's old town that keeps the original style and appearance. It reflects the historical heritage of old Hangzhou in terms of folk customs and architectural features, and vividly shows the style and appearance of the old town of Hangzhou.
Zhongshan Middle Road, as a traditional commercial district, still has many famous old stores. It also has many modern historical buildings showcasing fully Hangzhou's historical changes. The alleys here have partly kept their names from the Southern Song Dynasty.
There is a European style building shaded by towering London plane trees. Take a closer look. It turns out to be the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China and you may feel as if you were back to the 1990s. There are also historical buildings like the former site of the Salt Industrial Bank, the former site of Wanyuan Silk Store, and the former site of Zhejiang Industrial Bank.
On weekends, models and their photographers are often seen taking photos here. And occasionally, there are newly-weds taking pre-wedding photos. They are often dressed in vintage clothes, which go perfectly with the buildings here.
Sixinfang 思鑫坊
Do you know where the most posh residential area of Hangzhou was in Republican China? The answer is Sixinfang, which is only about 300 meters away from the West Lake. When people complain that their life pace is too fast and they are feeling very tired both physically and mentally, Sixinfang, hidden in the bustling downtown area of Hangzhou, seems to remain unchanged.
In early Republican China, a military camp of the Qing Dynasty there was dismantled to build a new market, namely the New Commercial District, which is the prototype of the present lakeside area. Sixinfang Modern Residence Protection Zone consists of three neighborhoods: Sixinfang, Chengdeli and Xuanshouli, and seven freestanding Western-style villas. The buildings there are mainly modern Shikumen architecture or Western villas.
For decades, these buildings have witnessed the changes of history and people's joys and sorrows, separations and reunions.
No matter how it was before and is now, Sixinfang is still filled with the lively smell of life.